As with all road trips, the fun began before we’d even got out of town. Mike offered us some enormous hot tamales which were the hottest thing I’ve ever eaten and which only one man has has ever managed to eat more than two consecutively, and it burned a searing hot hole not just through his tongue, but straight out the bottom of his jaw. So we decided to have a feat of taste bud strength and each hold one in our mouth, without chewing, as long as we could. The winner would get a prize to the equivalent of ten dollars. Well, turns out if you don’t chew them, they’re not very hot at all. But they do make you talk hilariously, quite a bit like in this memorable scene from My Fair Lady.
About an hour and a half into our drive, we saw a sign for a place called Wacky Yakky’s Magical Soda Shop and Emporium of Treasures. Of course we took the next exit and went straight there. We were delighted to find that the place promised more than we’d dared hope. The signs on the exterior read as follows:
- Wind Chimes
- Sign Designs by L.M. Redlin
- Body Jewelry
- Cement Art
- Water Fall MOtion Pictures
- Metal Signs by Lazor
- Chainsaw Carvings
- Live Theater
- Dance Teacher
Unfortunately, the place left a bit to be desired. It mainly had a lot of used VHS tapes and some locally made soy wickless candles (I felt a bit guilty after handling all their goods, so I bought some Oakmoss & Amber wickless candle wax, and it has actually been quite lovely).
We stopped off again in Moose Lake, which I was very excited about after having heard it repeatedly referenced in VeggieTales. Lunch at the Lazy Moose and a really delicious piece of lemon crisp pie. Recommended!
Once we got to Duluth, we checked out the shops at Canal Park, ate some high end chocolates, looked at books, and talked to a very nice lady about local fiddle festivals.
We also drove over the famous Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge. In 1871, a canal was built that turned a residential peninsula into an island. Since it was on the other side of a canal where boats needed to cross often, it would be really inconvenient to put a bridge there. So they held a contest to figure out a solution.
John Alexander Low Waddell came up with the winning Aerial Lift solution, but the War Department decided to do what they always do: change the rules of the game and do whatever they wanted anyway! America! So, people used ferries for a long time, until everybody realized this was inefficient and inconvenient. So, about 40 years later, they decided to do what Waddell had suggested originally and built this lift bridge that can move up and down to get out of boats’ ways.
Then we went to Goodwill to buy rain jackets because it had been raining vengefully all day. The woman at Goodwill was convinced we were going to get on Willie Nelson’s bus and be on the news. She was SO excited for us. Some other people told us if we’d give Willie a rose he’d give us his bandana. I did a lot of Googling but couldn’t substantiate this rumor.
We ate dinner at Fitgers Brewery and Grille. Root beer from a tap! While I appreciate the novelty, it was less flavorful than I prefer. Also, as an FYI, the service was really quite slow, so, if you go there, make sure you have plenty of time or ask for your check as soon as your food comes (that’s what we did). Also, I had a veggie pub burger which I would eat it again. ALSO, and most significantly, the brewery is in the very building is where a 17-year old Bob Dylan stood just three feet from Buddy Holly in concert. Cool!
Then to the concert. Amazing. Trampled by Turtles gave an awesome show for their home town. Beautiful Lake Superior was the backdrop. Willie played almost nonstop for two hours. Good stories; he’s the kind of guy I’d like to go on vacation with. Vacation to Duluth. We did not get on the bus, unfortunately. And he did not give us a bandana. I am also proud to say that my folk-square dancing made a few people’s home videos. At one point, a couple were running through the crowd and stopped to dance, Julia-style, as they passed me. Win!
Next day, we saw Gooseberry Falls, which were lovely but very crowd-packed. The “hike” to them was paved and more of a stroll, but the view from there was lovely. I realized afterward that I think I would have been blown away by the falls if I’d hiked seven miles to get to them. Utah is all about making you work for your scenery. If a person in a wheelchair can access it, it’s probably not worth seeing.
Then we went to Lake Superior. Everyone said it would be too cold to swim, but I doffed my duds and ran straighway into the water, undaunted. Everyone else eventually joined in, and we had a wonderful time. Also, the rumors are true: looking out at Lake Superior was like looking out at the ocean. Not the tropical kind, but what I imagine the British Columbia coast is like. Trees and rocks and water. The maritime effect evinced itself even more in that I kept marveling that I didn’t have a salty taste in my mouth. Lake Superior!
To close, enjoy these videos of Willie Nelson:
and Trampled by Turtles: